Singapore - it's been fun but time to go

One reason I like to travel is to confirm that Canada is the best country in the world to live in. Kidding aside (sort of), when I travel I do try to keep an open mind to how others live, and then ask myself if they are on to something. For example, throughout the world I'm often impressed with the food on offer and wish we Canadians would pick up a few lessons from abroad. Maybe a few less hotdogs and fries and a few more fresh tasty meals instead - just a friendly suggestion.

After enjoying another great meal at a mall food court in Singapore, jammed packed with the locals, I have to chalk one up to the Singaporeans. Great food, variety, quality and prices - and even a beer stand to get a bottle. Would it be so wrong if we could get such treatment in Canada? Cleanliness? Have to give Singapore another point. Yes Canada is pretty neat and tidy when we're not dealing with snirt (that's my name for the mix of snow and dirt that we drag into our malls and businesses all winter). But it doesn't gleam and sparkle like Singapore. Modern infrastructure? Chalk another one up for Singapore. They seemed to have skipped that 60's and '70's minimalist-rectangle look so prevalent in Ottawa. Too many public buildings in Canada look like something out of a Soviet era housing project. Traffic? Wow, the traffic runs smooth and light, not like the traffic jams common during rush hour in many Canadain cities. Weather? Maybe too tropical for some, but there are no snowstorms or freezing rain here.

But scratch a little and you'll see the cracks in the veneer - some downside in all this upside. You get the gleaming streets but make sure you flush the toilet (it's a fine for you if you don't), and forget about chewing gum on the street because that's not allowed. These types of rules indicate to me at least a unwelcome constraints on personal choice. Yes everyone should flush the toilet but is a rule and fine necessary? Traffic is great but forget about owning a car unless you're rich. You'll need to pay import taxes, a certificate of use, and tolls in the city that will at least triple the price, and is only good for ten years before you have to pay again. Good thing the public transit is good here. 

As for crime and punishment, this is where things just start getting weird. There is mandatory capital punishment by judge (not jury) for some crimes that wouldn't get you anywhere near life in prison in the West, like drug trafficking. The rate of executions here has been higher per capita than just about anywhere else. Some crimes are just strange - opposition party leaders turned bankrupt after successful defamation suits by ruling government ministers. Pornography, homosexuality, nudity - all banned. Most Singaporeans live in public housing, but cats are banned from the buildings. I saw a sign in the building we're stayng in that prohibited pet owners from letting their pets relieve themselves on the  lawn or bushes. As far as I understand it, there isn't anywhere a dog is allowed to go in the city unless you bring some kind of mat. 

It's like Singapore became a nanny state with a mean streak. Or a right leaning party had the run of the place for the last 50 years. Pleasant place, just stay on the straight and narrow.  

So would I live here? Probably not, but what a fun, impressive place to visit. And what great food!

Here's us at Universal Studios. 

Universal Studios and Gardens by the Bay

Yesterday in Singapore we spent the day at Universal Studios. The place was like Disneyland but better with all sorts of themed streets and rides based on various movies. We bought express tickets which allowed us to jump the queue, which was well worth it. John and Elizabeth's favourite ride was a roller coaster ride in the dark based on The Mummy movie, where we found the Book of the Living to banish the mummy and save the world. I liked The Transformers ride that made it feel like we were battling transformers. There was a Jurassic Park ride where dinosaurs started running wild while we floated and splashed along a river; I was soaked both times we rode it on the final plunge down the rapids. Catheleen was smart and wore a rain poncho, avoiding the deluge. There were also two incredible roller coasters based on the BattleStar Galactica television series where we needed to empty our pockets before riding, since it flipped and turned us upside down and inside out. This ride was crazy and turned my stomach, so I only rode it once. 

We also saw a Water World performance in the afternoon that blew us away, based on the movie I didn't like when it came out. It was set in a post apocalyptic world where the ice caps had melted and the survivors lived on floating villages in search of the mythical last piece of land. The show took place on a water set where a battle ensued between the invaders of the floating village and the inhabitants, all fighting over knowledge of the location of the land. The battles fought were amazing, with boats, jet skis and even a prop plane which dropped onto the set. In the final scene the bad guy is actually lit on fire and drops two or three stories into the water. The audience were sprayed throughout by the action, and the kids, who sat in front, got pretty wet. Catheleen and I sat further back to avoid the spray but I still received a good soaking. If you ever have a chance to visit Universal Studios, I highly recommend it. It was truly a memorable experience. 

Today we visited Gardens by the Bay, which is a park built on reclaimed land. At the park we visited a couple of glass dome conservatories. One was called Cloud Forest and showcased a 140 foot mountain inside the dome under cool moist conditions with a waterfall. It was intended to show off a mountainous tropical region with multiple levels full of plants and flowers. After the walk to the site in the heat, it was a nice refreshing oasis as we walked our way down the walkways from the top of the mountain to the bottom. 

The other conservatory was called Flower Dome, which was intended to show off a more arid environment with trees and plants from different regions. The dome offered stunning views of the waterfront and skyline, including the Marina Bay Sands resort, which is three towers with a boat-like structure on top spanning all three buildings - I kid you not, you have to see it to believe it. 

Final stop at the park were structures that looked like massive trees. They were topped with solar panels and also used to heat and cool water used in the park as part of a sustainable environmental design. We went up the trees and walked between them on walkways. John and I left before dark while Carheleen and Elizabeth stayed to enjoy the nighttime views. 

It was a great day in Singapore. Here's John on the walkway connecting the trees, with the Marina Bay Sands resort in the background. 

Next stop Singapore - cool vibe, orderly state

From the moment we boarded our flight to Singapore from Ho Chi Minh City I felt more relaxed. I started by reading a Singapore newspaper called The Straits Times. Here was a press discussing the country's general election results from just a few days before. What a change from the dry newspaper I read in Vietnam, with its reports on official government meetings and statistics showing how the country is improving in various ways.

After arrival at the swanky Singapore airport, we passed easily through immigration control. We were greeted by a friendly immigration officer and waited briefly for our passports to be stamped while enjoying some candies on offer. Afterwards were got to rate our experience on touch screens - we ranked it an excellent experience. Much different from the long stares John and I received from a Vietnamese official before he stamped our passports one last time before letting us board our plane. The only indication at the Singapore airport that we were not in some metro paradise were three military personnel patrolling with sub machine guns.

We're staying downtown at a condo, and we're experiencing a modern vibe to everything. We've seen unique modern architecture - buildings with curves, waves and slices missing from the standard rectangle buildings I see in most places; and big screens covering the entire sides of buildings. We walked through malls lit from below with pulsating screens, and strolled over multi-level walkways crossing the streets. We've seen the well dressed and bored locals on their way to work, or perking up when chatting at an outdoor cafe, bar or restaurant. It all adds a cool vibe to the city.

It's certainly a nice change from countries we've previously visited,  and it's great for me that just about everyone here speaks English. I've stopped random people in the street to ask for directions and everyone has been friendly and helpful. 

The country has a large Indian community and we visited the Little India section of town yesterday. It was a place to pick up a few things and have a great meal at an Indian outdoor food court. It felt like I was in India, with people eating with their hands as is the tradition I believe. I tried eating with my hands but didn't quite get the knack of it. 

As we crossed a pedestrian bridge to a mall and shopping area I noticed a sign warning of a $1,000 fine for riding a bike on the bridge. Over the next day I noticed more signs. A $500 fine for smoking here, a $500 fine for eating or drinking there. Instructions not to sit near the fountain, not to lean against the door, not to loiter near the statue. There were four or five separate signs on our way up the escalator explaining what to do and not to do. In the subway there were many instructions explaining where to stand, how to enter and exit the train, to keep the sound down on my device, etc. I didn't see any signs saying not to litter or the fines for doing so. Considering I didn't see so much as a wrapper on the ground over two days, I guess littering isn't a problem that needs fixing. There were also cameras everywhere, with notices posted that we're being monitored via CCTV.

It seems to me to be a very orderly, rules based society. Even the election was a harmonious affair as the ruling People's Action Party (PAP) won 70 percent of the popular vote, up from 60 percent in the last election, winning all but a few seats in parliament. I have to say I liked all the rules since they made sense to me and made for a more pleasant environment on the whole. But it did feel strange - maybe I just wasn't used to all the cameras.

I was curious though to learn a little more, so I looked into the history and politics of this place. The country was a British colony going back to the early 1800's, was occupied by the Japanese during World War II, and gained its independence in the sixties. Singapore was originally joined with Malaysia but split after only two years. The main point of contention seemed to be concern over affirmative action policies by the Malay government, which were focused on improving the lot of the poorer majority Malayian ethic group. The Singaporeans were half Chinese after years of immigration under favourable British colonial immigration and business practices. As such the Singaporeans did not consider the affirmative action plan fair, which led to race riots and the Singaporeans going their own way.

The country is very well to do. The per capita income is one of the highest in the world and it's recognized as the easiest place in the world to do business. It"s a world centre for shipping, banking and business. The people here enjoy a high standard of education, health care, and the civil service has a reputation for honest government.

It did appear odd to me though that the PAP has been in power since independence, with no signs of much opposition. I looked into it and this country has what Freedom House would call a flawed democracy. It's a bit subtle but a number of factors have hamstrung the opposition parties here including the lack of an independent electoral authority, a judiciary and press under government influence (journalists regularly engage in self-censorship), and restrictions on political associations, demonstrations and political ads. 

It's like from the Singaporeans' perspective, having much of an opposition just wouldn't be very orderly or harmonious. 

Here is John at the mall, riding the waves  or something.