After arrival at the swanky Singapore airport, we passed easily through immigration control. We were greeted by a friendly immigration officer and waited briefly for our passports to be stamped while enjoying some candies on offer. Afterwards were got to rate our experience on touch screens - we ranked it an excellent experience. Much different from the long stares John and I received from a Vietnamese official before he stamped our passports one last time before letting us board our plane. The only indication at the Singapore airport that we were not in some metro paradise were three military personnel patrolling with sub machine guns.
We're staying downtown at a condo, and we're experiencing a modern vibe to everything. We've seen unique modern architecture - buildings with curves, waves and slices missing from the standard rectangle buildings I see in most places; and big screens covering the entire sides of buildings. We walked through malls lit from below with pulsating screens, and strolled over multi-level walkways crossing the streets. We've seen the well dressed and bored locals on their way to work, or perking up when chatting at an outdoor cafe, bar or restaurant. It all adds a cool vibe to the city.
It's certainly a nice change from countries we've previously visited, and it's great for me that just about everyone here speaks English. I've stopped random people in the street to ask for directions and everyone has been friendly and helpful.
The country has a large Indian community and we visited the Little India section of town yesterday. It was a place to pick up a few things and have a great meal at an Indian outdoor food court. It felt like I was in India, with people eating with their hands as is the tradition I believe. I tried eating with my hands but didn't quite get the knack of it.
As we crossed a pedestrian bridge to a mall and shopping area I noticed a sign warning of a $1,000 fine for riding a bike on the bridge. Over the next day I noticed more signs. A $500 fine for smoking here, a $500 fine for eating or drinking there. Instructions not to sit near the fountain, not to lean against the door, not to loiter near the statue. There were four or five separate signs on our way up the escalator explaining what to do and not to do. In the subway there were many instructions explaining where to stand, how to enter and exit the train, to keep the sound down on my device, etc. I didn't see any signs saying not to litter or the fines for doing so. Considering I didn't see so much as a wrapper on the ground over two days, I guess littering isn't a problem that needs fixing. There were also cameras everywhere, with notices posted that we're being monitored via CCTV.
It seems to me to be a very orderly, rules based society. Even the election was a harmonious affair as the ruling People's Action Party (PAP) won 70 percent of the popular vote, up from 60 percent in the last election, winning all but a few seats in parliament. I have to say I liked all the rules since they made sense to me and made for a more pleasant environment on the whole. But it did feel strange - maybe I just wasn't used to all the cameras.
I was curious though to learn a little more, so I looked into the history and politics of this place. The country was a British colony going back to the early 1800's, was occupied by the Japanese during World War II, and gained its independence in the sixties. Singapore was originally joined with Malaysia but split after only two years. The main point of contention seemed to be concern over affirmative action policies by the Malay government, which were focused on improving the lot of the poorer majority Malayian ethic group. The Singaporeans were half Chinese after years of immigration under favourable British colonial immigration and business practices. As such the Singaporeans did not consider the affirmative action plan fair, which led to race riots and the Singaporeans going their own way.
The country is very well to do. The per capita income is one of the highest in the world and it's recognized as the easiest place in the world to do business. It"s a world centre for shipping, banking and business. The people here enjoy a high standard of education, health care, and the civil service has a reputation for honest government.
It did appear odd to me though that the PAP has been in power since independence, with no signs of much opposition. I looked into it and this country has what Freedom House would call a flawed democracy. It's a bit subtle but a number of factors have hamstrung the opposition parties here including the lack of an independent electoral authority, a judiciary and press under government influence (journalists regularly engage in self-censorship), and restrictions on political associations, demonstrations and political ads.
It's like from the Singaporeans' perspective, having much of an opposition just wouldn't be very orderly or harmonious.
Here is John at the mall, riding the waves or something.
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